GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 0

On October 21, Andy and I took an early morning flight from East Midlands Airport to Palma, Mallorca where we met Rafael who was to guide us along the GR221 he had also arranged all our accommodation and meals and over the week would instructed us in the history, culture, language, flora and fauna of the Serra de Tramuntana and generally work hard to get a disorderly group of three Brits and four Canucks (Canadians) across Mallorca. Please see Rafael's website at Walk Picos

Having taken our bags off us, he sent us off to sight see around Palma, telling us that he would meet  us and our, as yet unknown companions at the Placa de Espanya later in the day.

The actual meet up was somewhat bizarre, a scene from a spoof spy movie, as various individuals and couples  eyed the numerous other people standing around or meandering about the square, occasionally muttering the code word “Rafael” in the hope that a. they were in the right place and b. they had indeed met another member on the walk. All was quickly resolved and we took the bus to Porto Pollenca and a nice Mallorcan Hostel/Hotel where we had our first meal and drinks together.

Outlining the walk Rafael explained that tomorrow our cases would be taken away and we would not see them again till we reach Soller, in three days’ time. Naturally this caused some consternation among those not used to multiday walking. I explained that by using the system of keeping one set of ‘evening’ dry clothes in a waterproof bag and wearing the same ‘day’ clothes over several days it is possible to reduce the weight and bulk to be carried.

The next day a short bus ride took us to the nearby town of Pollenca and the start of the walk. The famed Pollenca market was in full swing, dazzling the senses with a fabulous variety of colours, smells and languages. Food for lunch and water was purchased and divvied amongst us. The first of what was to become a daily ritual.

The GR221 walk is usually described, and walked, from south to north i.e. Port d’ Andratx to Pollenca, we however are walking north to south, Pollenca to Estellencs. The main reason for this was to ensure a booking at the Tossals Verds Refuge and, as we have only six days here we are ending at Estellence.

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 1 - Pollenca to LLuc

From the Market we walked through the village and down a short road to the Pont Roma (Roman Bridge) for photos, back up the road and along to the start of the walk of the Camina Per Mallorca.

Our general route was up the Valley D’En Marc following the Torrent de Sant Jordi.  Along the way we had to go onto the MA-10 road a couple of times due to “rights of way issues”.  Apart from that early sections were along very quiet roads and tracks past an array of small farms consisting largely of stone walled fields of fruit or olive trees and small herds of sheep or goats. The amount and size of the stone walls was amazing, they are everywhere, some up to 10 or more metres wide.

The track had been climbing steadily for a while when we turned off into a woodland of Holm-Oak and started climbing more steeply giving us a first taste of the terracing and zig-zag paths to come. Rafael gave an introduction to the cultural and industrial background of the route we were using. Simply put, there is a network of paths all over Mallorca that lead to the LLuc Monastery. These paths have been used for centuries by pilgrims travelling to and from LLuc on pilgrimages and the Consell de Mallorca are trying to protect, enhance, re-open as many of them as possible to cater for the increasing tourist market for hiking and to safeguard a natural asset.

We met a couple of mushroom pickers who said that for them it was a money earning exercise. We saw many more ferretting about in the woodlands and fields.

The woodlands along these routes have for centuries been centers for making charcoal and lime as well as herding. Today we can see the visible remains of stone huts, kilns etc.

We stopped for lunch on some rocks near the Font de ses Cases, then pushed on along decent tracks to Binifaldo. Here the party split Rafael, Bob and Phil (Canucks) went off to climb Puig Tomir, while Andy, Pete and I (Brits), Sandy and Mary (Canucks) took the short cut down to Menut, across the MA-10 and down to LLuc for some well-earned beers Another thing that was to become a daily ritual. Unfortunately Rafael, Bob and Phil were prevented from climbing Puig Tomir by a rain and hail storm.  Later we all met up for a great meal in one of the three restaurants on the site.

LLuc Monastery is now, as best I could tell, a very large Hostel/Hotel of four large, four floor wings around a quadrangle that has a church set with in it. There is a bar and restaurant in the building and three others in the complex also car parking and a Visitors Centre. Andy and I shared a twin room with en-suite and television but no tea making facilities. Definitely more hotel than the YHA type of hostel we are more used to.

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 3 - Tossals Verds to Soller

Another big day. The morning faff included visiting the donkeys and deciding if tap, spring or bottled water should be carried today.

First surprise of the day came very early, having read up on the walk, I was expecting to turn right to go back up the GR221 instead we turned left onto one of the Alternate Sections and it was fun.

This was a different type of walking to previous days, no good wide paths, no way marks, this was proper hill walking, in low cloud and rain. Rocky, loose footing, heavy grass and bushes, walking, almost scrambling in places, contouring across the lower flanks of Puig des Tossals Verds above a long valley the Canonada d’Emaya  with the TorrentL’Almedra way below us, we headed for Pas Llis, then turned north in to the valley below Morro de Cuber and climbed to a walled col, the Coll de sa Coma des Ases, then a short  descent  the Reservoir de Cuber and back on to the GR221.  

The pipeline from the Curber reservoir runs down the Canonada d’Emaya could be seen in places as we walked up  At one point in this section we had to cross a rock face, execute a sharp turn and drop down the face holding on to steel chains bolted into the rock for support. For some of the party this was definitely outside their comfort zone, most surprised themselves.

Walking down the track alongside the reservoir across the top of the dam to lunch on tables and benches outside a hut, the atmosphere was high, we had tested ourselves on tough ground and won, well at least survived.

From Cuber we followed the route to the Coll de I’Ofre where to the north (right) there is a small valley, which appears to end in a perpendicular cliff, I’m not certain if it does, I did not get close enough to it to see, I was too busy looking at the stunning view over the whole of the Soller valley right down to the sea. Biniaraix, Soller, Binibassi, Fornalutx and Porto Soller all spread out like an aerial map. This must be the GR221’s equivalent of High Cup Nick.

The Coll de I’Orfe is just above the top of the spectacular Barranc de Biniaraix. A ravine cleaved into the mountains that surround Biniaraix, Soller and Binibassi. “It’s slopes, organized into agricultural smallholdings, have been intensively terraced, mainly for the cultivation of olive trees. It is also a good example of the integration of dry stone structures into the natural environment.”

This is one of the ancient routes from Soller to LLuc and other parts of Mallorca. There is a cobbled path 3.5 kilometres long from its base in Biniaraix all the way up. The path, called the Camí del Barranc de Biniaraix, was restored in 1987 by the School of Wallers run by the Consell de Mallorca and was declared a protected Monument and Place of Cultural Interest in 1994.

I have read the reports from people who have walked up it, but none of any walking down. Now having walked down I think I am glad I came down. Going down was hard particularly on the back of my calves, as was the slapping of my fore feet on the stones, but at least I had a view and I didn’t stop too often. Going up would be a grind, as we found out on our big climb 2 days later.

This place, the path, the mountains hanging over, the views, the sea, the vertical multi-coloured rock faces, the terraces, fruit and olive trees, the houses and farms are fantastic, you don’t have to be a walker or walk very far up the Cami del Barranc de Biniaraix to enjoy, absorb, wonder, take a hundred photographs. When you’re done, go down to the bottom, turn left and have beer or two in the first bar on the left. We certainly did. We had earned it.

Unfortunately we still had a hour or so’s walk to our Hotel/Hostel in Soller, this was along roads through narrow winding streets of tall houses, obviously quite old, the mix of architectures was fascinating as we headed into the centre of Soller. After a quick look around the centre, a visit to the Station (train to Palma) and an introduction to the Tram which runs between the Station and Porto Soller, we got to our hotel and in to our rooms.

The rooms were basic but good, with en-suite, no television or tea facilities, we had no complaints. Cases retrieved, we sorted out our clothing, repacked our rucksacks, stuffed minging kit in the cases, we sent them off hopefully to see them again on Friday night.

Dinner that night was at a restaurant in the main square, with the tram rattling by from time to time, we had had a hard but great day, we knew each other better now, we were more comfortable together and we had good meal and a great laugh, while Sandy cooled her aching feet in the horse trough (fountain).

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 4 - Soller to Deia

This morning’s faff was complicated by the fact that last night we had persuaded Rafael that this morning rather than walk to Porto Soller, we all wanted to experience the tram. As they only run once an hour, timing was everything, needless to say in the last few minutes before the tram reached our embarkation point there was a lot of shouting and not a little panic and strange looks from locals passing by.

Today was to be a ‘short day’ a bit of a rest day after the hard day yesterday and another one tomorrow. So we wandered around the port area, the old town and meander around the harbour past the beach, the bars and hotels up to the Lighthouse on the Cape at the entrance to the harbour.

 From here it was a very pleasant walk through trees and low scrub and rocky outcrops, and the inevitable fruit and olive trees until we reached the road near to the big farmhouse Muleta Gran. Walking along a small road we soon came to and crossed the MA-10 to take a track passing a large house/restaurant , the path from here leads along a good track passing through farm and woodland until we hit the MA-10 again, following the GR221 signs through a small village we ended up on the road running between Deia and Cala de Deia. We waited for the tail to catch up and headed down to the Cala, a lovely little beach, cliffs, boat launch ramp and bar.

While Phil, Bob, Mary, Pete and Rafael went swimming, Sandy sat on the beach, Andy and I headed for the bar and a wonderful couple of hours were had by all. But, we had to pay for our leisure, as between the Cala and Deia was a long, winding hill to climb. It was a slow walk.

Eventually having seen Robert Graves (WW1 Poet) House/Museum and his Grave at the Church we left the Canucks at their hotel while for Rafael Andy Pete and I headed to the Refugi de Con Boi.   

Pete, Andy and I shared a two bunk room, Rafael was in another. Again, clean with excellent facilities and great food. In fact the evening meal of meat balls and potatoes stew was, for me, the best meal of the week without question.

Later over beers, we discussed with Rafael the next day’s walk from Deia to Valdemossa and onto Esporles. Andy was suffering with his knee (a pre walk injury) and although he wanted to complete the highly rated first part to Valdemossa, he was unsure of being able to walk the second part of this section. We also brought up that at dinner in Soller Mary and Sandy had expressed a wish to spend some time in Valdemossa doing the kind of things ladies do when there are shops and art galleries etc. to look at.

Finally, subject to agreement with the Canucks, we agreed that we would all walk to Valdemossa and probably get a taxi from there to Esporles.

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 5 - Deia to Valdemossa

An epic faff this morning, two groups in two separate hotels/hostels meeting up at the designated meeting place, purchasing lunch, discussing and agreeing that we would take a taxi to Esporles. Rafeal had discussions with one of the taxi drivers in Deia, it was all sorted.

Deia is a lovely place. Although we had not spent much time there I liked it. Built on a hill with the Church perched on top, the town spreads down all flanks in a network of paths, steps, roads and watercourses all interweaving through a mass of houses in a range of styles, ages and orientations, all seeming to have orange or lemon trees in the gardens whose walls are covered in impressive shows of climbing flowers and shrubs.

We walked along the MA-10 for a K or so. The footway (sidewalk) while running adjacent to the road is actually cantilevered off the side of the massive retaining wall that supports the road, so that, as you walk you are directly above roads, a river, gardens and small fields all many metres below.

Leaving the MA-10 we followed a narrow road uphill around and behind a small hotel with a great looking sun deck and pool. Gradually we climbed through the orchards onto a steeper slope cut with terraces along a never ending series of zig zags into the Holme Oak and then pine forests. It was a grind, naturally as we climbed we spread out, coming together when those at the front zigged, or zagged the wrong way and had to retrace their steps. Initially the zig zag legs were quite long but as we got higher and the slope steeper they got shorter. On the final series of legs to the ridge the path reduced in width, became steeper with legs as short as 5 metres and at times was scary. On the way up the views, when available, were spectacular Deia below and the coastal hills and sea visible in both directions.

At the end of the climb we came out into the open at the foot of a gentle slope leading up to the top of the ridge. It had been a tough hour and a half or mores climb, certainly comparable in effort to that required to go up the Cami del Barranc de Biniaraix. From here up to the ridge we had to cross a boulder field, not a particularly nice walk, also not helped by a hundred and one small cairns adding to the route choice confusion.

Running along the ridge is a stone track named the Archdukes path was originally constructed by an 19th century Austrian nobleman so he could ride his horse here and generally wander around his estate and admire the excellent views. Group photographs were taken on the summit of Puig d'es Teix, the highest mountain top on our walk at 1062m. From here a large part of Mallorca can be seen, spectacular.

Walking west along the Archdukes path we again had tremendous views along the coast before descending to the Font des Poll and on down a well worn path to Valldemosa.

Valldemosa is attractive and interesting and for a while we enjoyed the bustle and sight seeing but soon realised that it’s a tourist town and at about the time we arrived they were starting to leave to get back to hotels etc. Pleasant place, a bit tacky I thought and expensive, certainly the most we paid for a round of drinks anywhere on the walk.

The Taxis arrived on time and whipped us to a very good Hostel/Hotel in Esporles. Esporles is well off the usual tourists map, and is a lovely place for that reason. Our room was great as was our evening meal and breakfast and we spent a relaxing evening on the terrace sinking a few beers.

For further posts on this walk Click on "Older Posts", below.

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 6 - Esporles to Estelence

A different kind of faff this morning, trailing around some of Esporles side roads, squares and main street to find the supermarket. This meander actually enhanced our opinion of the town.

I am sorry to say that much of the first half of the walk from Esporles to Banyalbufar has become badly faded in my memory except for passing by the church in Esporles, stopping to look at a large house and gardens and kids on a school trip, then a couple of sections along a main road I only have an image of walking along good tracks through a forest, then a badly damaged farmhouse and arriving in Banyalbufar.

We had a break in the small square overlooking the road through the town, before taking stroll around this picturesque village perched above a broad valley leading down to the sea.

A few K along the MA-10 we stopped below a stone turret shaped lookout point for lunch. Then along the MA-10 again until we turned left along a new alternative route through farmland which cuts out a lot of road walking. We reached Estelence and it just so happen that the first place we came to was a bar. End of walk.

After a while we caught the bus to Palma and our hotel for the night the Hotel Catalonia. We all had dinner together, then Peter, Andy and I then nipped out to a very dubious bar down the road for a few beers.

The night and early morning views from our room were super.

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. – Conclusions

It has been many years since I have undertaken any serious walking with a group of people and seldom with strangers. While I was not particularly concerned by this I must admit to being a bit wary. However, it was clear from the start that we were all unsure of how things would go and what difficulties might arise. Fortunately we all got on and there were no problems that I was aware off and throughout the walk despite tending to form together in our national groups we all walked and talked with each other through the day.

Looking at maps, guide books and particularly signage we found a problem, which probably occurs throughout the island, but does cause confusion on some GR221 maps and signs and other signage along the way. A place name may be written in Spanish on one sign or map, but in Mallorcan or Catalan on the next. All sorts of signs are written in different languages/dialects. Rafael who is mainland Spanish but has lived on Mallorca for many years struggled at times to understand what the sign etc. was saying.

I have tried to use one source for all place names etc. For any I get wrong I apologise.

The temperature throughout the walk was (at a guess) in the low twenty’s centigrade. We had two or three short rain showers and met people who had been in rain only a few miles from us when we had none. It was cloudy at times and there were cool breezes, but rarely enough to need to add layers when walking. As in all mountain areas the weather can change very quickly and low cloud can make being on the tops very difficult.

Signage and way marking was generally adequate to good, but as we found out it can be very easy to go off route, particularly on the zig-zag paths, by missing the zig and going right when you should have gone left etc., I certainly did this several times. In places there are numerous small stone cairns, many of which appeared to be more of a hindrance than a help. For me the strangest thing about the signage was the use of time to a destination rather than distance, on the first days this tended to annoy me, then I just ignored it. I know it confused and angered some of the others, especially when you’ve walked for two hours and the next sign shows a time only one hour less than the previous one. From the checking of maps etc. on the internet I now estimate that the times on the signs are based on about 4km per hour while from my GPS, the group were averaging only 1.8km per hour. Which explains a lot.

The paths underfoot ranged from bituminous paving on roads, sidewalks or tracks, through a range of stone surfaces from slabs and cobbles, large stones, small stones, loose gravel to earth. Overall I reckon the surfaces were generally good. Naturally whether you are going uphill or downhill can change your rating of the quality of the paths surface.

From the limited knowledge gained during six days walking I would describe the terrain as being long ridges divided by steep valleys, with high peaks at their head. From early on I though it somewhat similar to Cumbria. There is woodland to a high elevation and the extensive terracing with farmhouses etc. dotted around is the big difference. Much of the walk is in woodland, or orchards (I use the word loosely) of Olives, Citrus fruit, Almonds and others, usually in terraces and often looking as if they are returning to the wild, this may only be an impression.

The Hostels, Refuges and Hotels were all good and the food excellent, although I for one struggled with ham, cheese and dry rough bread for breakfast. No Tweetybiks here.

There are officially five Refugi run by the Consell de Mallorca. Unfortunately, their future is uncertain because of Spains financial problems, As a result the Refugi’s may have to be sold to a private company or just closed. This would be a great shame as they provide the type of service the YHA’s in England should do but don’t. The two we stayed at were excellent.

Would I go again, on this walk probably not, but I would certainly come back and do day walks, even two or three day walks.

Finally I must give very many thanks to Rafael for all his hard work throughout the walk, in managing the logistics, keeping us going in the right direction, providing an endless source of information about the island, the GR221, the mountains, there flora, fauna and history. He is a great guide.

Websites
Rafael: Walk Picos

Mallorca Walks