Day 5 Buttermere, Ennerdale, Wasdale, Eskdale

Date : Thursday 6 October 2011

Area : Cumbria

Walk : Buttermere to Eskdale

Start At : Buttermere YHA

End At : Eskdale YHA

OS Sheet : OL4 & 6

Distance M/k) : 12.5 / 20.1

Ascent (ft) : 3150

Descent (ft) : 3372

Route
From Buttermere go south around the end of the lake, turn left following the shore line, at Peggys Bridge take the path up to Scarth Gap and down into Ennerdale, take the path up to Black Sail Pass and down into Mosedale and Wasdale Head. Head down to the car park on Wast Water, through Bracken Close and upwards to Burnmoor Tarn follow path to Eel Tarn and down to the Woolpack and on to the YHA


















Journey


Unfortunately due to high winds and heavy rain we had to abandon this walk last year, eventually making the journey by bus, train and La'al Ratty to Eskdale.


This year, Wednesday’s weather looked as if we might hbe in for a repeat of last years weather, even the forecast was pretty dismal. However, Thursday dawned bright and dry if a little breezy so off we trotted, past the Fish Inn and along the side of Buttermere heading for the path to Scarth Gap.

As we approached the start of the path we could see a small tracked excavator wobbling up the path. We caught it up where the path was diverted around a section of hillside that had been washed out by a beck flooding and where works were underway to rebuild the beck and the path. As we slowly climb we were overtaken by the second walker this year. As we climbed the views were fantastic Fleetwith Pike. Dale Head, Haystacks, High Stile.

Approaching Scarth Gap the mist/cloud dropped and the wind increased to the point where I started to wonder if we could get through. Then as we descended the wind dropped and the wild beauty of Ennerdale was laid out in front of us with the River Liza shining, silver bright against the green and brown. Great Gable, Kirk Fell and Pillar were lined up opposite us while Haystacks loomed over us.

The walk down to Black Sail Hut seemed to take no time at all and suddenly we were there, inside having a cup of tea and a hut made flapjack.


Slogging up to Black Sail Pass we felt several small quick showers of rain. The fight to force our way against the wind was just as bad here as at Scarth Gap and just as quickly over. The walk down was pleasant, the views in the slight sunshine were inspiring. Then, when about a K from Wasdale Head just as we were looking forward to the food and drink we would have there out of the blue we were hit by a horrendous hail storm, it battered us, it blew and it stung. We weren’t wearing over trousers so while we stayed dry on top our trousers were soaked, in the end we just stood hoods up, rucksacks turned to the wind driven hail.


As quick as it started it stopped and the sun was shining.

After over an hour sitting in the Wasdale Head Inn we had fed were warmed up and about dryed out so we headed off for what we expected would be the easiest part of the days walk, a stroll over to Burnmoor Tarn and on to the Woolpack. How wrong we were.

Although we both walk in approach shoes so far today our feet had stayed pretty dry, which considering the walk so far was dam good. We decided not to walk down the road to get to Bracken Close, the start of the route to Burnmoor,  but to followed the bridleway instead, only to find that we had to cross three separate stretches of calf deep water. They were wide and cold. A bad start.

We found it a long drag up past Maiden Castle to Burnmoor Tarn, it was also muddy and wet. As we paddled our way past Burnmoor Tarn where its waters stretched way beyond its banks towards Eel Tarn we were blessed with three or four more hail storms, thankfully all of short duration.

While we both had multiple rants about the mud, the water or the hail we had some really good (albeit manic) laughs particularly when we took a joint running jump over a water swollen beck (you had to be there).


Descending from Eel Tarn, almost tasting refreshments at the Woolpack, basking in the pale red sunshine pouring in from the coast through a clear sky we were suddenly hit by another bout of hail. Queue another rant.


The Hostel was good, its one of my favourite, as was the food and drink at the Woolpack Inn