It has been many years since I
have undertaken any serious walking with a group of people and seldom with
strangers. While I was not particularly concerned by this I must admit to being
a bit wary. However, it was clear from the start that we were all unsure of how
things would go and what difficulties might arise. Fortunately we all got on
and there were no problems that I was aware off and throughout the walk despite
tending to form together in our national groups we all walked and talked with
each other through the day.
Looking at maps, guide books and
particularly signage we found a problem, which probably occurs throughout the
island, but does cause confusion on some GR221 maps and signs and other signage
along the way. A place name may be written in Spanish on one sign or map, but
in Mallorcan or Catalan on the next. All sorts of signs are written in
different languages/dialects. Rafael who is mainland Spanish but has lived on
Mallorca for many years struggled at times to understand what the sign etc. was
saying.
I have tried to use one source
for all place names etc. For any I get wrong I apologise.
The temperature throughout the
walk was (at a guess) in the low twenty’s centigrade. We had two or three short
rain showers and met people who had been in rain only a few miles from us when
we had none. It was cloudy at times and there were cool breezes, but rarely
enough to need to add layers when walking. As in all mountain areas the weather
can change very quickly and low cloud can make being on the tops very
difficult.
Signage and way marking was
generally adequate to good, but as we found out it can be very easy to go off
route, particularly on the zig-zag paths, by missing the zig and going right
when you should have gone left etc., I certainly did this several times. In
places there are numerous small stone cairns, many of which appeared to be more
of a hindrance than a help. For me the strangest thing about the signage was
the use of time to a destination rather than distance, on the first days this
tended to annoy me, then I just ignored it. I know it confused and angered some
of the others, especially when you’ve walked for two hours and the next sign
shows a time only one hour less than the previous one. From the checking of
maps etc. on the internet I now estimate that the times on the signs are based
on about 4km per hour while from my GPS, the group were averaging only 1.8km
per hour. Which explains a lot.
The paths underfoot ranged from
bituminous paving on roads, sidewalks or tracks, through a range of stone
surfaces from slabs and cobbles, large stones, small stones, loose gravel to
earth. Overall I reckon the surfaces were generally good. Naturally whether you
are going uphill or downhill can change your rating of the quality of the paths
surface.
From the limited knowledge gained
during six days walking I would describe the terrain as being long ridges divided
by steep valleys, with high peaks at their head. From early on I though it
somewhat similar to Cumbria. There is woodland to a high elevation and the
extensive terracing with farmhouses etc. dotted around is the big difference.
Much of the walk is in woodland, or orchards (I use the word loosely) of
Olives, Citrus fruit, Almonds and others, usually in terraces and often looking
as if they are returning to the wild, this may only be an impression.
The Hostels, Refuges and Hotels
were all good and the food excellent, although I for one struggled with ham,
cheese and dry rough bread for breakfast. No Tweetybiks here.
There are officially five Refugi run by the Consell de Mallorca. Unfortunately,
their future is uncertain because of Spains financial problems, As a result the
Refugi’s may have to be sold to a private company or just closed. This would be
a great shame as they provide the type of service the YHA’s in England should
do but don’t. The two we stayed at were excellent.
Would I go
again, on this walk probably not, but I would certainly come back and do day
walks, even two or three day walks.
Finally I must give very many thanks to Rafael for all his hard work throughout the walk, in managing the logistics, keeping us going in the right direction, providing an endless source of information about the island, the GR221, the mountains, there flora, fauna and history. He is a great guide.
Finally I must give very many thanks to Rafael for all his hard work throughout the walk, in managing the logistics, keeping us going in the right direction, providing an endless source of information about the island, the GR221, the mountains, there flora, fauna and history. He is a great guide.
Websites
Rafael: Walk Picos
Mallorca Walks
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