Monday 10 December 2012

GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 5 - Deia to Valdemossa

An epic faff this morning, two groups in two separate hotels/hostels meeting up at the designated meeting place, purchasing lunch, discussing and agreeing that we would take a taxi to Esporles. Rafeal had discussions with one of the taxi drivers in Deia, it was all sorted.

Deia is a lovely place. Although we had not spent much time there I liked it. Built on a hill with the Church perched on top, the town spreads down all flanks in a network of paths, steps, roads and watercourses all interweaving through a mass of houses in a range of styles, ages and orientations, all seeming to have orange or lemon trees in the gardens whose walls are covered in impressive shows of climbing flowers and shrubs.

We walked along the MA-10 for a K or so. The footway (sidewalk) while running adjacent to the road is actually cantilevered off the side of the massive retaining wall that supports the road, so that, as you walk you are directly above roads, a river, gardens and small fields all many metres below.

Leaving the MA-10 we followed a narrow road uphill around and behind a small hotel with a great looking sun deck and pool. Gradually we climbed through the orchards onto a steeper slope cut with terraces along a never ending series of zig zags into the Holme Oak and then pine forests. It was a grind, naturally as we climbed we spread out, coming together when those at the front zigged, or zagged the wrong way and had to retrace their steps. Initially the zig zag legs were quite long but as we got higher and the slope steeper they got shorter. On the final series of legs to the ridge the path reduced in width, became steeper with legs as short as 5 metres and at times was scary. On the way up the views, when available, were spectacular Deia below and the coastal hills and sea visible in both directions.

























At the end of the climb we came out into the open at the foot of a gentle slope leading up to the top of the ridge. It had been a tough hour and a half or mores climb, certainly comparable in effort to that required to go up the Cami del Barranc de Biniaraix. From here up to the ridge we had to cross a boulder field, not a particularly nice walk, also not helped by a hundred and one small cairns adding to the route choice confusion.







Running along the ridge is a stone track named the Archdukes path was originally constructed by an 19th century Austrian nobleman so he could ride his horse here and generally wander around his estate and admire the excellent views. Group photographs were taken on the summit of Puig d'es Teix, the highest mountain top on our walk at 1062m. From here a large part of Mallorca can be seen, spectacular.

Walking west along the Archdukes path we again had tremendous views along the coast before descending to the Font des Poll and on down a well worn path to Valldemosa.


Valldemosa is attractive and interesting and for a while we enjoyed the bustle and sight seeing but soon realised that it’s a tourist town and at about the time we arrived they were starting to leave to get back to hotels etc. Pleasant place, a bit tacky I thought and expensive, certainly the most we paid for a round of drinks anywhere on the walk.

The Taxis arrived on time and whipped us to a very good Hostel/Hotel in Esporles. Esporles is well off the usual tourists map, and is a lovely place for that reason. Our room was great as was our evening meal and breakfast and we spent a relaxing evening on the terrace sinking a few beers.

For further posts on this walk Click on "Older Posts", below.

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