GR221 Camina Per Mallorca. Day 3 - Tossals Verds to Soller

Another big day. The morning faff included visiting the donkeys and deciding if tap, spring or bottled water should be carried today.

First surprise of the day came very early, having read up on the walk, I was expecting to turn right to go back up the GR221 instead we turned left onto one of the Alternate Sections and it was fun.

This was a different type of walking to previous days, no good wide paths, no way marks, this was proper hill walking, in low cloud and rain. Rocky, loose footing, heavy grass and bushes, walking, almost scrambling in places, contouring across the lower flanks of Puig des Tossals Verds above a long valley the Canonada d’Emaya  with the TorrentL’Almedra way below us, we headed for Pas Llis, then turned north in to the valley below Morro de Cuber and climbed to a walled col, the Coll de sa Coma des Ases, then a short  descent  the Reservoir de Cuber and back on to the GR221.  

The pipeline from the Curber reservoir runs down the Canonada d’Emaya could be seen in places as we walked up  At one point in this section we had to cross a rock face, execute a sharp turn and drop down the face holding on to steel chains bolted into the rock for support. For some of the party this was definitely outside their comfort zone, most surprised themselves.

Walking down the track alongside the reservoir across the top of the dam to lunch on tables and benches outside a hut, the atmosphere was high, we had tested ourselves on tough ground and won, well at least survived.

From Cuber we followed the route to the Coll de I’Ofre where to the north (right) there is a small valley, which appears to end in a perpendicular cliff, I’m not certain if it does, I did not get close enough to it to see, I was too busy looking at the stunning view over the whole of the Soller valley right down to the sea. Biniaraix, Soller, Binibassi, Fornalutx and Porto Soller all spread out like an aerial map. This must be the GR221’s equivalent of High Cup Nick.

The Coll de I’Orfe is just above the top of the spectacular Barranc de Biniaraix. A ravine cleaved into the mountains that surround Biniaraix, Soller and Binibassi. “It’s slopes, organized into agricultural smallholdings, have been intensively terraced, mainly for the cultivation of olive trees. It is also a good example of the integration of dry stone structures into the natural environment.”

This is one of the ancient routes from Soller to LLuc and other parts of Mallorca. There is a cobbled path 3.5 kilometres long from its base in Biniaraix all the way up. The path, called the Camí del Barranc de Biniaraix, was restored in 1987 by the School of Wallers run by the Consell de Mallorca and was declared a protected Monument and Place of Cultural Interest in 1994.

I have read the reports from people who have walked up it, but none of any walking down. Now having walked down I think I am glad I came down. Going down was hard particularly on the back of my calves, as was the slapping of my fore feet on the stones, but at least I had a view and I didn’t stop too often. Going up would be a grind, as we found out on our big climb 2 days later.

This place, the path, the mountains hanging over, the views, the sea, the vertical multi-coloured rock faces, the terraces, fruit and olive trees, the houses and farms are fantastic, you don’t have to be a walker or walk very far up the Cami del Barranc de Biniaraix to enjoy, absorb, wonder, take a hundred photographs. When you’re done, go down to the bottom, turn left and have beer or two in the first bar on the left. We certainly did. We had earned it.

Unfortunately we still had a hour or so’s walk to our Hotel/Hostel in Soller, this was along roads through narrow winding streets of tall houses, obviously quite old, the mix of architectures was fascinating as we headed into the centre of Soller. After a quick look around the centre, a visit to the Station (train to Palma) and an introduction to the Tram which runs between the Station and Porto Soller, we got to our hotel and in to our rooms.

The rooms were basic but good, with en-suite, no television or tea facilities, we had no complaints. Cases retrieved, we sorted out our clothing, repacked our rucksacks, stuffed minging kit in the cases, we sent them off hopefully to see them again on Friday night.

Dinner that night was at a restaurant in the main square, with the tram rattling by from time to time, we had had a hard but great day, we knew each other better now, we were more comfortable together and we had good meal and a great laugh, while Sandy cooled her aching feet in the horse trough (fountain).